A band of armed park rangers marches through the dense forest of Niokolo-Koba National Park in Senegal’s last remaining refuge for critically endangered lions. The park’s director, Paul Diedhiou, closely observes their progress as they search for poachers and miners who are after the park’s rich deposits of gold. With their weapons at the ready, the rangers are just one of nine brigades that tirelessly work to protect the park’s wildlife.

Unfortunately, the lions in the park are not only threatened by human exploitation, but also by traditional beliefs deeply ingrained in the local culture. It is believed that the mystical powers of lion skin talismans, known as “gris-gris,” hold immense spiritual and societal significance. This has led to a growing black market for leopard and lion parts in Senegal, as outlined in a recent report by wild cat conservation group Panthera.

Despite efforts to educate and discourage these beliefs, people continue to poach and kill these magnificent creatures for their skins. Diedhiou acknowledges the existence of these beliefs, stating “whether we agree with them or not, it exists.”

The rangers have a daunting task ahead of them, as they must cover more than 3,500 square miles of the park’s terrain, much of which can only be navigated on foot. One such ranger, Sgt. Abdou Diouf, leads the anti-poaching brigade and is dedicated to protecting the park’s precious wildlife

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